The First Safari
My very first game drive in Africa happened in South Luangwa National Park (SLNP) in eastern Zambia. Since Mom and Dad were with us from India for a couple of months (Jan-Mar) we took advantage of this opportunity to give them a true experience of Africa. The weekend trip to SLNP was very eventful. A comfortable stay at Mfue Lodge right in the middle of the thick forest got us up close firsthand views of lions, zebras, giraffe, elephants, hippo, impala and a lot more. On Friday, Saturday and Sunday there were early morning drives (6 am – 10 am) and afternoon drives (4-7 pm) to capture various animals during their wanderings at different times of the day. The guide would drive us around, stopping for pictures and giving us in-depth insight about the eating, mating, birthing and sleeping patterns of each of these animals. One morning they even stopped and set up a lovely meal for us in the middle of the forest. The night drives included a spotter in our vehicle who would shine light in the dark to look for nocturnal animals. Slightly scary but fascinating experience!
The lodge itself housed small independent rooms separated from each other. The owners took special care to prepare vegetarian meals for us and ensured that our stay was comfortable and memorable. Which it most definitely was!
* Tanzania – beaches, boats and bananas
During the American Memorial Day long weekend (May-end) the four of us (including Ashwin who was visiting us) took a trip to Zanzibar, an island on the Indian Ocean, off the eastern coast of Tanzania. Flying on Zambezi Airlines from Lusaka into Dar-e-salaam and then connecting by a local flight to Zanzibar took us to this paradise on earth very akin to our very God’s Own Country – Kerala. The lush greenery, Tanzanian dhows (as the sail boats are called) plying on the backwaters and the lazy fishing villages along the coast form an ideal laid back setting for any tourist seeking a quiet retreat from the hustle-bustle of the city. The strong Islam flavor is seen in the local culture when we saw many burkha-clad women in the markets and men wearing kaftans riding bicycles. The highlights of our trip were Stone Town (old architecture), Prison Island (where black prisoners were separated back in the days), Tortoise Park (housing 120-year old turtles) and the crystal-clear warm waters which invite you take a dip when the sun is out. The two-hour boat ride back from Zanzibar to Dar on the choppy waters was scary and we were glad to set foot back on land. Our final night stay at Dar’s SeaCliff Hotel was delightful with lovely views of the harbor and some last minute shopping for souvenirs to take back home.
*Namibia – sunsets, sand dunes and safaris!
Namibia has been on the top of my mind ever since we landed in Africa last year. Without much preparation we decided on a spur-of-the-moment trip during Thanksgiving weekend of November. Our friends Padma & Krishnaswamy joined us and we flew Air Namibia Lusaka – Windhoek. After overnighting in Windhoek at a moderate self-catering apartment we went to Walvis Bay and Swakopmund. The view of the Atlantic Ocean waters on one side and the vast stretches of untouched Namib Desert on the other side offered the most spectacular sight. Desert drive and quadbiking was an amazing way to get right into the middle of the sand dunes. With each of driving our own quadbike, the guide took us some 25 miles into the desert and stopped for pictures. During that hour I realized and experienced - once again - the presence of God on earth; divinity alone can be the cause of such breathtaking natural scenery. I thanked God profusely for bringing me to this part of the world. All others in our group shared this viewpoint and wholeheartedly agreed with me. We were re-discovering joy through these small and big wonders of nature. In fact living in Africa has re-opened my eyes to seeing nature in a renewed fashion. I now find joy in simple daily activities—like sunrise and sunset, chirping of the birds, stargazing, fresh smell of earth after rain—activities which hitherto had little appeal to me. Perhaps the fact that I have less stress and more time here in Zambia is a prime cause for this, who knows? Whatever be the reason, the bottom line is that this chapter in my life is undoubtedly an unforgettable one.
The next day we took a cruise along Walvis Bay to see dolphins and seal colonies. While in Swakop we also enjoyed Nachos and cappuccino at a Mexican restaurant and a hearty vegetarian meal at the “Wreck” seaside restaurant. Most of our other meals were pre-cooked foods and snacks which we had packed from home. After our return to Windhoek that night we spend a whole day of sightseeing and shopping in the capital of Namibia. We also went on a long drive to Amani Lodge located at the highest point of the country where we saw the Big Cats safari; at the lodge they take care of and rehabilitate orphaned cheetahs, leopards and lions. The trip ended with a gorgeous sunset and a glass of champagne! A fantastic way indeed to end our trip. Next morning we flew back to Lusaka.
This is a travelogue of my stay in Zambia, Africa. I came to Lusaka in Aug. 2010 after living in Maryland, USA for twenty years. I am an multidisciplinary artist (dancer-choreographer-teacher-singer) of Indian origin who loves to travel the world. After traveling far and wide throughout Asia and Africa, I am back in North America, continuing my experiences in life, arts and travel.
Arangetram team

Friday, December 16, 2011
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
Fast forwarding through the calendar year 2011
Zambia diaries – updating my blog after ten months! Lots to write about. A lot.
Completing my MFA Thesis
After the workshop performance of “Shakuntala” at the Alliance Francaise, in Lusaka I took it to Towson for a video presentation during my short visit to Maryland all of which happened in February 2011. Then came the thesis writing portion; I would sit for hours at my computer in Zambia to churn out the 40-page paper. Those weeks of writing, re-writing, and editing involved linking my paper “Performing Identities: South Asians in the Diaspora” to the Shakuntala performance. To read my thesis, follow the link that I will post very shortly.
And finally defending my thesis in June at Towson. After a stressful period of final edits, I cleared the defense and officially received my MFA degree from Towson University! Whew! What a roller coaster three years of hard work it has been. Tough, but totally worth it.
Nritya Mala
My very young local students and I performed a dance recital in May 2011 at Hindu Hall, Lusaka which was a simple collection of bharatanatyam items. The entire program especially the contemporary finale “5 elements” was very well received. What with good press coverage and an attendance of about 300 people the show went better than we anticipated. I found a new collaborator in Rekha Chandramouli, a talented dancer and a creative person who has just moved into Zambia from South Africa.
Summer in the US!
After celebrating my Masters degree graduation I had to take care of other business such as my dance school Jayamangala activities (Annual Recital & Arangetram training and performances in June/July). Besides spending quality time with close friends and extended family members, a memorable aspect of that summer was attending Chinmaya Mission’s “Mahasamadhi” spiritual camp at Chicago July 29-Aug 3, 2011. Five full days immersed in yoga, meditation, satsang, Bhagwad Gita lectures by Swami Tejomayananda and partaking in the cultural programs by offering and enjoying dance performances with like-minded people, was a thoroughly enjoyable experience.
Of course any trip to the US is never complete without visits to some of our favorite hangout joints, shopping sprees and eateries. Especially more so because we had spent the last year in Africa. In deprivation, so to speak. So it was Olive Garden, Taco Bell, Pizza Hut, Macaroni Grill, Columbia Mall, Coldstone Creamery…um…the list is slightly long and endless. Road trips to New York City, Baltimore, Charlottesville were combined with visiting potential college campuses for Aishwarya for next year.
Fall 2011 – Back in Lusaka
After returning to Zambia in Aug, I had to re-adjust my mental thought processes to slow down to African standards. Which is great, if you’ve just returned from a whirlwind tour of the states.
Within a few days after our return from the US we welcomed Gayathri Ganapathy and family friend visiting from London who spent two weeks with us. Being a dancer herself Gayu was an ace addition to our dance team when we performed for the
1. Barefeet Theater Festival in Aug
2. Maharashtra Mandal’s Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations in September
3. Kerala Association’s Onam thiruvathira dance in Sept.
Believe it or not, all of the above were events that happened in Lusaka. After Gayathri returned to UK, with the hubby and daughter settled in their respective work (office/school), I am left to myself. I spend a lot more time reading, praying, contemplating, cooking and doing social service – for everything, there is plenty of time and scope here! As mentioned earlier having a daytime domestic maid and a driver has made my life much simpler. Moreover, besides a shopping mall, a movie theater and a few small clubs, sources of recreation in Lusaka are few and far between. The scarcity of external sensory pleasures forces one to turn inward. That might be the reason why many of my fellow Indians who live here, turn extremely devout and religious - visiting temples, conducting regular pujas and havans at home. Which might only be the ritualistic aspect of religion, yet the importance of bhakthi margam as an approach to salvation cannot be undermined.
Personally though, I prefer the introspective approach of self-discovery. Among the books that have kept me engaged are “The Monk Who Sold his Ferrari” by Robin Sharma, “The Journey called Life” by Mananam series and Yogahasma Paramananda’s “The Autobiography of a Yogi”. Currently I’m leafing through a downloaded copy of MK Gandhi’s “The Story of my Experiments with Truth” which is a fascinating read! Our weekly satsangs in a small group on Sundays are also something I eagerly look forward to. If there is nothing else to do on a weekend, there is invariably a birthday party or a social gathering or ICC cricket match where a few families gather to wine and dine together.
In addition to teaching dance and music to a small group of south Indian girls at home, I have got roped into joining various executive committees of Lusaka Hindu Association (LHA) and Lusaka Indian Ladies Association (LILA). So when I am not teaching dance, I am helping organize fundraising or cultural events for these groups. One such big community project was the Diwali show “Yathra – Journey through India” in Oct 2011 at Lotus Grounds for LHA where I rounded up more than 150 local singers, dancers and models who came together on stage in a spectacular production attended by 3000 people. It was a tiring, daunting task to pull together. Not aesthetically satisfying like organizing one of my regular classical dance programs/festivals/conferences, but a different experience in my life. The hardest part was dealing with people, their complex personalities, and ego clashes. Been there, done that, not sure if I want to do that again!
Coming up next: Travels to neighboring countries
* Tanzania – beaches, boats and bananas
*Namibia – sunsets, sand dunes and safaris!
Completing my MFA Thesis
After the workshop performance of “Shakuntala” at the Alliance Francaise, in Lusaka I took it to Towson for a video presentation during my short visit to Maryland all of which happened in February 2011. Then came the thesis writing portion; I would sit for hours at my computer in Zambia to churn out the 40-page paper. Those weeks of writing, re-writing, and editing involved linking my paper “Performing Identities: South Asians in the Diaspora” to the Shakuntala performance. To read my thesis, follow the link that I will post very shortly.
And finally defending my thesis in June at Towson. After a stressful period of final edits, I cleared the defense and officially received my MFA degree from Towson University! Whew! What a roller coaster three years of hard work it has been. Tough, but totally worth it.
Nritya Mala
My very young local students and I performed a dance recital in May 2011 at Hindu Hall, Lusaka which was a simple collection of bharatanatyam items. The entire program especially the contemporary finale “5 elements” was very well received. What with good press coverage and an attendance of about 300 people the show went better than we anticipated. I found a new collaborator in Rekha Chandramouli, a talented dancer and a creative person who has just moved into Zambia from South Africa.
Summer in the US!
After celebrating my Masters degree graduation I had to take care of other business such as my dance school Jayamangala activities (Annual Recital & Arangetram training and performances in June/July). Besides spending quality time with close friends and extended family members, a memorable aspect of that summer was attending Chinmaya Mission’s “Mahasamadhi” spiritual camp at Chicago July 29-Aug 3, 2011. Five full days immersed in yoga, meditation, satsang, Bhagwad Gita lectures by Swami Tejomayananda and partaking in the cultural programs by offering and enjoying dance performances with like-minded people, was a thoroughly enjoyable experience.
Of course any trip to the US is never complete without visits to some of our favorite hangout joints, shopping sprees and eateries. Especially more so because we had spent the last year in Africa. In deprivation, so to speak. So it was Olive Garden, Taco Bell, Pizza Hut, Macaroni Grill, Columbia Mall, Coldstone Creamery…um…the list is slightly long and endless. Road trips to New York City, Baltimore, Charlottesville were combined with visiting potential college campuses for Aishwarya for next year.
Fall 2011 – Back in Lusaka
After returning to Zambia in Aug, I had to re-adjust my mental thought processes to slow down to African standards. Which is great, if you’ve just returned from a whirlwind tour of the states.
Within a few days after our return from the US we welcomed Gayathri Ganapathy and family friend visiting from London who spent two weeks with us. Being a dancer herself Gayu was an ace addition to our dance team when we performed for the
1. Barefeet Theater Festival in Aug
2. Maharashtra Mandal’s Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations in September
3. Kerala Association’s Onam thiruvathira dance in Sept.
Believe it or not, all of the above were events that happened in Lusaka. After Gayathri returned to UK, with the hubby and daughter settled in their respective work (office/school), I am left to myself. I spend a lot more time reading, praying, contemplating, cooking and doing social service – for everything, there is plenty of time and scope here! As mentioned earlier having a daytime domestic maid and a driver has made my life much simpler. Moreover, besides a shopping mall, a movie theater and a few small clubs, sources of recreation in Lusaka are few and far between. The scarcity of external sensory pleasures forces one to turn inward. That might be the reason why many of my fellow Indians who live here, turn extremely devout and religious - visiting temples, conducting regular pujas and havans at home. Which might only be the ritualistic aspect of religion, yet the importance of bhakthi margam as an approach to salvation cannot be undermined.
Personally though, I prefer the introspective approach of self-discovery. Among the books that have kept me engaged are “The Monk Who Sold his Ferrari” by Robin Sharma, “The Journey called Life” by Mananam series and Yogahasma Paramananda’s “The Autobiography of a Yogi”. Currently I’m leafing through a downloaded copy of MK Gandhi’s “The Story of my Experiments with Truth” which is a fascinating read! Our weekly satsangs in a small group on Sundays are also something I eagerly look forward to. If there is nothing else to do on a weekend, there is invariably a birthday party or a social gathering or ICC cricket match where a few families gather to wine and dine together.
In addition to teaching dance and music to a small group of south Indian girls at home, I have got roped into joining various executive committees of Lusaka Hindu Association (LHA) and Lusaka Indian Ladies Association (LILA). So when I am not teaching dance, I am helping organize fundraising or cultural events for these groups. One such big community project was the Diwali show “Yathra – Journey through India” in Oct 2011 at Lotus Grounds for LHA where I rounded up more than 150 local singers, dancers and models who came together on stage in a spectacular production attended by 3000 people. It was a tiring, daunting task to pull together. Not aesthetically satisfying like organizing one of my regular classical dance programs/festivals/conferences, but a different experience in my life. The hardest part was dealing with people, their complex personalities, and ego clashes. Been there, done that, not sure if I want to do that again!
Coming up next: Travels to neighboring countries
* Tanzania – beaches, boats and bananas
*Namibia – sunsets, sand dunes and safaris!
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